Veteran restauranteurs Don and Leslie Jones are at it again. The newly opened Ol’ Vine Fresh Grill at 3523 South Peoria is destined to be a standout even among the quality restaurants lining Brookside. Readers of TulsaFood are no doubt familiar with the Jones’ other Brookside establishment, Cafe Ole’. Regulars of Ole’ will find that the Joneses have successfully brought the same passion for quality and value to their new American destination restaurant. Diners may choose from a comfortable dining room, a full bar, a covered back patio, or a view of the Brookside hubbub en plein air under the front canopy.
During a recent Saturday afternoon, my wife (Amy) and I had the pleasure of speaking with Mr. Jones. During our conversation he spoke of his foodie roots and of his passion (obsession?) for finding the absolute best ingredients to make a new dish sing. For example: one doesn’t simply eat bacon at Ol’ Vine – one eats one of three different kinds of bacon that has been painstakingly sourced and meticulously matched to one’s entree.
Mr. Jones is fond of “dirty flavors” – tastes and textures that unfold with each bite to ensure that each dish is far more interesting than its name would lead you to believe. Take, for example, the Shrimp and Grits. The name of the southern staple belies its complexity and nuance. At Ol’ Vine the dish consists of a generous mound of grits flavored with jalapenos and Tillamook extra-sharp white cheddar. The shrimp are wrapped in bacon, broiled, and set in a shallow encircling ring of Sriracha honey butter. With each bite of shrimp, a smear of grits, and a quick dredge through the honey butter moat, you will appreciate the “dirty flavors” that continue to materialize and evolve past what you supposed was the apex. As we were dining during the Saturday afternoon brunch hour we naturally paired this dish with a beautiful Bloody Mary.
Amy and I sampled several items on the brunch and standard menus. Brunch offerings include a mushroom sausage quiche of Mrs. Jones’ own invention, mascarpone stuffed french toast, and a traditional breakfast plate of over-easy eggs, biscuits and peppery sausage gravy, and crispy bacon. The quiche was flawless. It combined perfectly seasoned creamy eggs with the deep umami of mushrooms and sausage in a flaky, buttery crust and was served beside a bed of fresh greens with a tasty vinaigrette. The fresh acidity of the salad paired with the rich creaminess of the quiche – my mouth is watering right now as I remember.
The French Toast with a delightful marscapone and fresh, perfectly-ripened berries, dusted with sugar and drizzled with warm maple syrup was a heavenly. Inwardly, I resolved to eat only one bite so that I could more fully appreciate whatever came next. The resolution was futile.
Lunch options include a gorgonzola-topped prime, all natural angus strip steak with a balsamic reduction, herbed mashed potatoes and creamed spinach. The steak was perfectly seasoned, with a gorgeous crusted edge. I couldn’t resist having a bite of everything all at once and the flavors complimented each other well.
The Joneses seem to be a well matched team, devoted to each dish. They begin experimenting at home, discussing ideas and flavors which Leslie then works into commercially feaseable entrees. Don told us that Leslie has been testing pizza crust recipes in their home kitchen for years, searching for one that can be made in bulk without losing it’s magic. Once they decide a dish is worthy of the restaurant, they introduce it to the kitchen and only when it’s duplicated perfectly does it appear on the menu. Don and Leslie are aiming to appeal to the quintessential Tulsa crowd that seeks out locally owned eateries and who (collectively) are no stranger to chef driven concepts featuring desirable dishes made with fresh ingredients. As you would expect from this Fresh Grill, certain sections and dishes of the menu will change seasonally based upon the availability of certain ingredients.
Speaking of pizza, please try the Pepperoni, Mushroom and Sausage artisan pizza with a cold IPA. Leslie nailed the crust – tender and crispy, not too heavily loaded. Each bite delivers a punch of flavor – salty pepperoni, wild mushrooms, and spicy Italian sausage with a tomato sauce portioned out just right not to leave a soggy middle.
It’s obvious the Joneses take great care in choosing the best of every ingredient and the resulting dishes shine- not too pretentious, but downright delicious. Ol’ Vine is destined to be a Tulsa favorite.
~ By Calvin and Amy Teague
Ol’ Vine Fresh Grill
3523 South Peoria
918.747.9463
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